【文章标题】：Why some US restaurants are banning tips 【文章标题】：为什么美国一些餐厅禁止小费
【文章正文】： ‘What you see is what you pay’ - why some US restaurants are banning tips “所见即所付”——为什么美国一些餐厅禁止小费
Wine waiter Caroline Kraetzer earns $40 (£30) an hour, double what most service staff in San Francisco are paid but then it costs a lot to eat at her restaurant. 葡萄酒侍者卡罗琳·克雷泽每小时挣40美元（30英镑），是旧金山大多数服务人员工资的两倍，但在她的餐厅用餐费用也很高。
At a set price of $140 (£100) per person, La Cigale is one of a small number of US restaurants charging higher prices so it can pay high salaries - and it doesn’t allow tips. 按每人140美元（100英镑）的固定价格，La Cigale是美国少数几家收取更高价格以支付高薪的餐厅之一——而且它不允许收小费。
It tells customers: “What you see is what you pay. We do not accept tips, your kind words and return visits will suffice.” 它告诉顾客：“所见即所付。我们不收小费，您的善意之言和再次光临就足够了。”
Kraetzer says it is good to no longer be “reliant on the generosity of strangers to pay the bills”. 克雷泽说，不再“依赖陌生人的慷慨来支付账单”是件好事。
While waiting staff at other restaurants can make a lot of money from tips, she says “you’re often there two hours before service, and again when you’re closing after the guests have left, so you are making minimum wage during that time”. 虽然其他餐厅的侍者可以从小费中赚很多钱，但她说，“你常常在营业前两小时就到岗，客人离开后打烊时还要再待一段时间，所以那段时间你只能拿最低工资。”
Fairer for staff? 对员工更公平吗？
On the other side of the US, Rachel Miller, chef and owner of Nightshade Noodle Bar in the town Lynn, Massachusetts, moved to a tip-free model five years ago when they reopened after the Covid-19 pandemic. 在美国另一端，马萨诸塞州林恩镇Nightshade Noodle Bar的主厨兼老板蕾切尔·米勒在五年前新冠疫情后重新开业时，转向了无小费模式。
Her motivation was to make it fairer for the kitchen staff. 她的动机是让厨房员工得到更公平的待遇。
“The people breaking their backs and minds in the kitchen - often the least visible and the least celebrated - were taking home a fraction of what the front staff made on tips for the same hours,” she says. 她说：“在厨房里累断腰、费尽心思的人——往往是最不显眼、最不受称赞的——同样的工作时间，拿回家的钱却只是前台员工小费收入的一小部分。”
Miller says she found it “deeply unsettling” to see higher tips going to white male staff and lower tips to everyone else. 米勒说，看到白人男性员工拿到更高小费，而其他人拿到较低小费，她感到“深感不安”。
“Tipping lets guests, consciously or not, pay people differently based on gender, race, or sexuality and I was not willing to let that decide my team’s income.” “小费让客人有意无意地根据性别、种族或性取向来区别支付员工，我不愿意让这一点决定我团队的收入。”
To pay the staff higher wages, Miller also increased prices at the French-Vietnamese restaurant. Its tasting menus now start from 126 (£92) for nine courses. 为了给员工支付更高工资，米勒也提高了这家法式越南餐厅的价格。其品尝菜单现在七道菜起价102美元（75英镑），限18:00前；九道菜126美元（92英镑）。
“Our prices are higher than a comparable restaurant’s because they carry the full cost of paying people properly,” says Miller. “That is the trade, and I stand behind it.” “我们的价格比同类餐厅高，因为价格包含了合理支付员工的全部成本，”米勒说。“这就是取舍，我支持这个决定。”
How have customers reacted? 顾客反应如何？
Yet not every restaurant that has switched to a tipless model has made a success of it, as sometimes customers don’t appreciate the higher menu prices. 然而，并非所有转向无小费模式的餐厅都取得了成功，因为有时顾客并不认可更高的菜单价格。
Talulla in Cambridge, Massachusetts, dropped tips in 2020 so it could pay staff more equitably, only to then switch back in September of last year. 马萨诸塞州剑桥市的Talulla餐厅在2020年取消小费，以便更公平地支付员工，结果却在去年9月又改了回去。
“We tried to keep our non-tipping model simply by raising our menu prices 23%, but we were only able to sustain this through the winter months,” says co-owner Danielle Ayer. “我们试图仅通过将菜单价格提高23%来维持无小费模式，但只坚持到了冬季结束，”联合老板丹妮尔·艾尔说。
“Operating a non-tipped restaurant is more expensive overall,” adds Ayer. “经营一家不收小费的餐厅总体上成本更高，”艾尔补充道。
This is because tips don’t count as part of a restaurant’s revenues, but higher menu prices do. So if a venue increases prices to pay staff more, its revenues go up accordingly, and it must pay more sales tax. 这是因为小费不计入餐厅收入，但更高的菜单价格会计入。因此，如果一家餐厅提高价格以支付员工更多工资，其收入会相应增加，就必须缴纳更多销售税。
William Michael Lynn, professor of food and beverage management at Cornell University and author of The Psychology of Tipping, says the problem of going tip-free is that customers struggle to get their heads around the maths. 康奈尔大学餐饮管理教授、《小费心理学》作者威廉·迈克尔·林恩说，无小费模式的问题在于顾客很难算清这笔账。
“Higher menu prices make dining out seem more expensive because people do not adequately take into account that they are no longer tipping,” he says. “It leads to lower demand.” “更高的菜单价格让外出就餐看起来更贵，因为人们没有充分考虑自己不再需要付小费，”他说。“这会导致需求下降。”
In New York, vegetarian restaurant Dirt Candy was one of the very first to ban tipping back in 2015. “I wanted to make it more equal for everybody,” says chef and owner Amanda Cohen, who now pays her staff about $30 an hour. 在纽约，素食餐厅Dirt Candy是2015年最早禁止小费的餐厅之一。“我想让每个人更平等，”主厨兼老板阿曼达·科恩说，她现在付给员工约每小时30美元。
She says that many customers “are pleasantly surprised when they realise they don’t have to tip 20% on top”. 她说，许多顾客“意识到不用再额外付20%小费时，会感到惊喜”。
Cassidy Van der Kamp is a filmmaker whose YouTube documentary Tipless was inspired by her own experience of working in a restaurant in Oakland, California which went tip-free. 卡西迪·范德坎普是一位电影制作人，她的YouTube纪录片《无小费》灵感来自她自己在加州奥克兰一家无小费餐厅工作的经历。
While some other servers left, Van der Kamp, who was originally paid about 21 per hour after the change. 虽然其他一些服务员离开了，但最初时薪约10美元加小费的范德坎普决定留下，改变后每小时挣21美元。
“I had stability for the first time as I knew what I was earning… and I didn’t need to look at a low tip and think what did I do wrong?” “我第一次有了稳定感，因为我知道自己能挣多少……我不需要看到小费少就想，我做错了什么？”
‘Tipping fatigue’ “小费疲劳”
While Van der Kamp liked the move, Lynn says that a huge challenge of moving to a gratuity-free system is that it can be difficult to attract and retain waiting staff who like getting tips. 虽然范德坎普喜欢这一改变，但林恩说，转向无小费制度的一大挑战是，很难吸引和留住喜欢拿小费的服务员。
However, given the growth of what has been called “tipping fatigue” – people being increasingly annoyed at having to pay high tips – will more restaurants stop the practice? 然而，鉴于所谓的“小费疲劳”日益加剧——人们越来越厌烦不得不支付高额小费——会有更多餐厅停止这种做法吗？
“Despite tip-fatigue, I do not think tipping is going to be eliminated on widescale anytime soon because the economic disadvantages of eliminating tipping outweigh the advantages,” says Lynn. “尽管存在小费疲劳，我认为小费不会很快被大规模取消，因为取消小费的经济弊端大于好处，”林恩说。
Back at Nightshade Noodle Bar, Miller doesn’t regret her decision. “The clearest measure is that staff stay. 回到Nightshade Noodle Bar，米勒并不后悔自己的决定。“最明显的衡量标准是员工留下来了。”
“Turnover in this industry is brutal, and we have people who have been here since we made the change. It has proven to be highly valued by my guests and team.” “这个行业的人员流动很残酷，而我们有些员工从我们做出改变时就一直在这里。事实证明，我的客人和团队都非常看重这一点。”